This article originally appeared in Acoustic Guitar magazine. © String Letter Publishing, all rights reserved.
Case Study: How to choose the proper case or gig bag for your guitar
By Teja Gerken
When it comes to keeping your guitar out of harm's way, the most important decision you make will be the kind of case in which you pack it. For years, the options could be boiled down to two choices: inexpensive chipboard or more expensive plywood. Most entry-level guitars come in chipboard (essentially reinforced cardboard) cases. Although they offer basic protection, they often provide a poor fit, allowing the guitar to move around within the case. I've also seen instances where the case was too tight and, due to a lack of padding, actually wore the finish off parts of the guitar. Still, a chipboard case is better than no case, and if you're primarily concerned with storing your instrument at home or taking it to a friend's house to jam, there may not be a compelling reason to spend more money on a better case, particularly if it would exceed the value of your guitar.
Laminated plywood cases come in a wide range of quality levels. The most basic ones are made from thin, three-ply material, with flat tops and backs and minimal padding. These cases share the same traits associated with chipboard cases, although they handle impact somewhat better. A good plywood case is made of six or seven layers of wood, has an arched top and bottom (which greatly increase its ability to resist pressure), and is outfitted with thick padding and sturdy hardware. With a proper fit, this kind of case ensures excellent protection. While not as bulletproof as flight cases, good plywood cases are used by many traveling musicians and will withstand most baggage handlers. Cedar Creek, Hi-Tone, and TKL are known for high-quality wooden cases, and Ameritage even makes models with built-in humidity controls.
Nowadays, most quality guitars come in cases made of injection-molded plastic (many of which are manufactured by the SKB Corp.). These cases offer about the same amount of protection as good plywood models, but they weigh and cost less. Their foam interiors are molded to fit the guitar perfectly, and the foam also absorbs shock well. One of the drawbacks of most molded cases is their tendency to wear out faster than other kinds of cases. The interior foam often separates from the outer shell, and rough treatment sometimes result in cracks and dents in the exterior that are not easily fixed.
If you do a lot of traveling, you'll probably want to buy a flight case for your ax. Flight cases are made out of strong fiberglass and feature extensive padding and heavy-duty hardware. The ultimate protection is provided by cases such as those made by Anvil and Calzone, but unless you're lucky enough to have roadies, you may want to look into lighter, less bulky options. Caltons and Mark Leafs are popular flight cases.
Gig bags offer the least amount of protection from physical impact, but they are easy to carry. A huge range of quality and prices can make shopping for a gig bag a bit daunting. Cheap nylon models with flimsy zippers and almost no padding can be purchased for as little as $20, and custom-made leather bags can exceed the cost of a flight case. Pay attention to the thickness of the padding, the quality of the zipper, and the comfort of the shoulder straps. Generally, the more rigid a gig bag is, the more protection it will provide. Some inexpensive models only have one shoulder strap, making it difficult to keep them stable on your back while carrying other pieces of gear. Companies like Kaces, Levys, ProTec, and TKL make good bags at affordable prices, while Blue Heron, the Colorado Case Co., and Reunion Blues have the high-end market covered.
Another option is ProTec's ProPack, which falls somewhere between a hard-shell case and a gig bag. It features a thin plywood frame that is covered with nylon and is extensively padded. Its dimensions are a bit bigger than the standard gig bag, making it relatively bulky, but it's a good compromise between protection and comfort.
SHOPPING TIPS
When you go out to shop for a case, make sure you find one that fits your guitar snugly. Look at how the case opens and closes; the lid should not press down on any part of the guitar. Make sure all the clasps are attached firmly and work smoothly. If there's a lock, try it out to see whether it works. Put your guitar in the case and lift it up by the handle. Is it balanced? Is the handle comfortable in your hand? It may seem like an unimportant detail, but recovering from carrying a heavy case with an uncomfortable handle is the last thing you need after rushing to a gig. Some cases have hardware for attaching a shoulder strap. This is a great feature that I wish more manufacturers included.
Although I keep my own guitars in hard-shell cases at home, I use gig bags for most of my travels around town. Because it's so much easier to throw a gig bag over my shoulder than it is to schlep a heavy case, my guitar stays with me at all times and is less likely to be stolen or get damaged. With the guitar on my back, I also have both hands free to carry my amp and other gear. Of course, if you're likely to hand your guitar over to someone else or to stow it in the back of a truck with heavy equipment, you should stick with a hard-shell case. In the end, what kind of case is right for you depends on the kind of traveling you do. The more you know about what's available, the better equipped you'll be the next time you hit the road.
FROM THE STRING Letter Publishing book the Acoustic Guitar Owner's Manual.